Gulf of Poets: What to See in Lerici, Tellaro and Portovenere

What should you see in the Gulf of Poets? If you are planning a few days in eastern Liguria, this stretch of coast lets you move in a short distance from the castles and seaside villages of Lerici and Tellaro to the coves of Fiascherino, then on to Portovenere, Palmaria Island and the city of La Spezia.

Hi, I’m Giulia from Agriturismo I Due Ghiri. This is an area I am especially fond of and one we often recommend to our guests because every day can feel different: sea, small villages, walks, history, local food and beautiful landscapes can all be part of the same trip.

In this guide I’ll show you what to see in the Gulf of Poets, which places deserve more time and how to organise your visit without rushing from one stop to another. If you are also deciding where to stay, take a look at our page dedicated to our agriturismo for exploring the Gulf of Poets.

What is the Gulf of Poets and where is it?

The Gulf of Poets is the name commonly used for the Gulf of La Spezia, in eastern Liguria. Portovenere marks its western side, Lerici its eastern side, while La Spezia lies at the centre of the gulf.

The name reflects an important part of the area’s identity. In 1910 the playwright Sem Benelli used the expression “Gulf of Poets”, referring to the close relationship this coastline had developed with writers, artists and intellectuals.

Among the names most closely associated with the gulf are Percy Bysshe Shelley and Mary Shelley, who lived in San Terenzo, as well as Lord Byron. Over time, the gulf continued to attract Italian and international writers, creating a connection between landscape and literature that can still be felt in its villages and walking routes.

What to see in the Gulf of Poets: our recommended stops

The Gulf of Poets is not a single destination. It is better understood as a collection of very different places. If you have limited time, focus on one side of the gulf; with several days, you can alternate Lerici, San Terenzo, Tellaro and Fiascherino with Portovenere and Palmaria, adding La Spezia as a separate urban stop.

1. Lerici: castle, alleys and seafront

Lerici is one of the places that best represents the Gulf of Poets, and for me it also has a personal meaning: it is linked to my childhood, walks along the seafront and days spent close to the sea.

The village skyline is dominated by San Giorgio Castle, built on the rocky headland closing the bay. The oldest part of the fortress dates back to the Middle Ages, and the climb is worthwhile for the views over Lerici and the gulf.

What to see in Lerici

• San Giorgio Castle, reached through the old town and its stairways;
• Piazza Garibaldi and the historic centre;
• the small Ligurian caruggi climbing between the houses;
• the seafront and harbour;
• the walk towards San Terenzo;
• the beaches around the bay, including Venere Azzurra.

If this is your first time in the Gulf of Poets, I would give Lerici at least half a day rather than simply stopping for a quick walk along the seafront.

2. San Terenzo and Villa Magni: following the Shelleys

A pleasant seafront promenade connects Lerici and San Terenzo, but the village deserves to be treated as a destination in its own right rather than just an extension of Lerici.

San Terenzo has one of the strongest literary connections in the gulf. Here you can see Villa Magni, also known as Villa Shelley, where Percy Bysshe Shelley lived with Mary Shelley in 1822.

The route between San Terenzo and Lerici is also part of a literary itinerary dedicated to the writers and poets connected with the gulf. If you want to understand why this coastline became known as the “Gulf of Poets”, San Terenzo is an important stop.

3. Tellaro: one of the most atmospheric villages in the gulf

Beyond Lerici and Fiascherino you reach Tellaro, a compact fishing village built directly above the rocks. The best thing to do here is simply walk slowly: narrow lanes, stairways, pastel-coloured houses and sudden views of the sea create a very different atmosphere from the larger resorts.

One of the symbols of Tellaro is the Church of San Giorgio, standing directly above the water and linked to the famous legend of the octopus that rang the church bells.

The legend of Tellaro’s octopus

According to local tradition, during a Saracen raid an octopus reached the ropes of the church bells, waking the inhabitants and allowing them to defend the village.

History and legend are still intertwined here today: the octopus has become one of Tellaro’s best-known symbols and remains part of the village’s local identity.

Tellaro is particularly beautiful outside the busiest hours and towards sunset. If you enjoy photography, leave yourself enough time to wait for the light to change instead of treating the village as a quick stop between two destinations.

4. Fiascherino: a seaside break between Lerici and Tellaro

Between Lerici and Tellaro lies Fiascherino, one of the places we recommend when you want to combine sightseeing with a few hours by the sea.

Its two small beaches are separated by a rocky headland and include both free and equipped areas. The setting is typical of this part of the Ligurian coast: small coves, Mediterranean vegetation and water enclosed by rocky slopes.

Guests at I Due Ghiri can also ask about access, when available, to our partner private beach service in Fiascherino for an additional fee. More information is available on our Gulf of Poets stay page.

5. Portovenere: San Pietro, Doria Castle and Palmaria

On the opposite side of the gulf, Portovenere offers a completely different landscape. The row of colourful houses lines the harbour while the village rises towards some of the most recognisable landmarks on the Ligurian coast.

Church of San Pietro

The Church of San Pietro stands on the rocky tip of the promontory. Its position above the Bocche di Portovenere makes it one of the most distinctive viewpoints in the village.

Byron’s Grotto

Near San Pietro is the so-called Byron’s Grotto, named in honour of the English poet and the Romantic literary tradition associated with this coast.

Doria Castle

Above the historic centre stands Doria Castle. From the upper part of Portovenere you get some of the best views over the village, the sea and the islands.

Palmaria Island

Opposite Portovenere lies Palmaria Island, the largest of the three islands in the archipelago together with Tino and Tinetto. Portovenere and the islands form part of the UNESCO-listed area together with the Cinque Terre.

When boat connections are operating, Palmaria can be a good second part of a day in Portovenere, especially if you enjoy walking and want to see the village from a different perspective.

6. La Spezia: the urban heart of the Gulf of Poets

At the centre of the gulf lies La Spezia. It is very different from the small coastal villages, which is precisely why it adds another dimension to a trip here: historic streets, museums, Passeggiata Morin, San Giorgio Castle and the city’s naval tradition all tell a different side of the area.

From the Passeggiata Morin area, seasonal boat services also connect La Spezia with destinations around the gulf, Portovenere, Palmaria and the Cinque Terre.

We have written a separate guide to the city: read our article on things to do in La Spezia.

Exploring the Gulf of Poets by boat

One of the most enjoyable experiences is to see at least part of the Gulf of Poets from the water. The perspective changes completely: you can see the fortifications, villages built along the shore, the islands and the natural shape of the gulf.

Depending on the season and current timetable, boats may connect places such as La Spezia, Lerici, Portovenere, Palmaria and the Cinque Terre. Always check updated schedules before planning your day, because routes and frequencies vary through the year.

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Walks and hiking in the Gulf of Poets

The Gulf of Poets is not only about the sea. The hills surrounding the villages are crossed by paths and old mule tracks that offer views of the coast from above.

One of the easiest walks is the promenade between San Terenzo and Lerici, around two kilometres long and also connected with the literary itinerary dedicated to the poets of the gulf.

Around Tellaro you can choose more natural routes towards places such as Portesone and Barbazzano, passing through olive groves, woodland and old paths. For longer hikes, always consult the official trail network and check conditions and difficulty before setting out.

Beaches in the Gulf of Poets

If you want to combine the villages with time by the sea, the Lerici side of the gulf offers several options.

• Venere Azzurra, between Lerici and San Terenzo;
• San Terenzo, easy to combine with a visit to the village;
• Fiascherino, between Lerici and Tellaro;
• smaller coves along the coast towards Tellaro.

In summer it is worth planning ahead, especially if you want to combine beach time, parking and sightseeing in the same day.

When is the best time to visit the Gulf of Poets?

There is no single best season. It depends mainly on what you want to do.

Spring and early autumn are the periods we personally prefer for walking through the villages and along the trails, thanks to generally milder temperatures and long enough days.

Summer is the natural choice if the sea and boat services are central to your trip, but Lerici, Tellaro and Portovenere can also be much busier.

Winter shows another side of the Gulf of Poets: fewer seasonal services, but more peaceful villages and beautiful walking days when the weather is good.

How to get around the Gulf of Poets

One important thing to know is that the different villages are not all reached in the same way.

For Lerici, San Terenzo and Tellaro, take seasonal traffic restrictions and limited-traffic zones into account. If you are driving, always check the latest local access rules before leaving.

Portovenere does not have a railway station: it can be reached by road or, when services are operating, by sea. La Spezia is the main railway hub and a useful departure point for boat connections.

For this reason, if you are staying several days, it is usually better not to try to cover both sides of the gulf in a single day.

How many days do you need for the Gulf of Poets?

Half a day can be enough for one main village, but to begin to understand the Gulf of Poets properly I would recommend at least two days.

One day can be devoted to Lerici, San Terenzo, Fiascherino and Tellaro; another to Portovenere and Palmaria. La Spezia can be added to one of the days or visited separately if you enjoy museums, urban history and naval heritage.

What to eat in the Gulf of Poets

The local cuisine also reflects the meeting point between sea and inland Liguria. In the Gulf of La Spezia, muscoli — the local name for mussels — are part of the area’s gastronomic identity.

Look out for stuffed mussels, fresh fish, anchovies, farinata, focaccia, pesto and other Ligurian specialities during your visit.

Back at the agriturismo, you can continue the gastronomic side of the trip with our Cooking for Friends, where we work with seasonal produce and ingredients that also come from our garden and organic farm.

Where to stay for visiting the Gulf of Poets

The best base depends on the kind of trip you want. Staying directly on the coast makes sense if you plan to spend almost all your time by the sea. Choosing the countryside instead allows you to combine the Gulf of Poets with other parts of eastern Liguria.

Agriturismo I Due Ghiri is in Calice al Cornoviglio, in the Val di Vara. From here we often organise day trips towards Lerici, Tellaro, Fiascherino, La Spezia and Portovenere, returning in the evening to the quiet of the countryside.

If this is the kind of trip you are looking for, see our accommodation in Val di Vara or read our page on where to stay for exploring the Gulf of Poets.

Our I Due Ghiri tip

Our advice is simple: do not try to see the entire Gulf of Poets in a few hours. Lerici and Tellaro have a different rhythm from Portovenere, and part of the appeal of these places is taking time to stop, walk and watch the villages change during the day.

If you have two days, divide them between the two sides of the gulf. With three days, add La Spezia or plan a slower day around the beach, a boat trip or a walk.

This is also one of the reasons we love living here: on the same trip you can move from the countryside of the Val di Vara to the sea, from tiny villages to the museums of La Spezia, and then return in the evening to the silence of the hills.

Frequently asked questions about the Gulf of Poets